RAIN

It’s Friday, Day 5 of our Kaua’i trip, and the past three have been somewhat soggy. In Waimea last night, we heard from the local pizza joint that there are two storms off the coast of the Big Island. The result has been off-and-on showers and strong winds all over Kaua’i.

Poipu (The Sunny Side of Paradise!), our home base for the first week, has not been spared. Located on the south side of the island, it has a track record of typically-drier weather. Not so right now. There have been flash flood warnings all around and even the Allerton Garden had to close yesterday afternoon due to damage caused by water and wind. For us, vacation and rain go hand in hand.

The forecast calls for decreasing and isolated showers over the next couple of days. Then next week, when we are on the north side, it’s supposed to be much more typical this time of year - drier and sunny.

GABRIEL BECOMING A BEACH BUM

We’ve only managed to make it to the beach a few times so far: Tuesday at Baby Beach here in Poipu; last night (Thursday) at the beach in Waimea for a walk; and then this morning at Baby Beach again.

Gabriel wasn’t keen on the motion and noise of the waves when he first tried the water. He’d happily walk along the shoreline where the sand was modestly wet. Then we carried him out to waist-deep water and let him get in a bit more. He learned to relax in it, so long as he wasn’t right near a wave as it hit the beach. Towards the end of our two-hour stay, he learned to enjoy the water.

Baby Beach, hidden from most tourist traffic, is so named because of the many lava rocks out in the deeper water that do a good job of breaking up the waves.

Baby Beach


By the time they reach the shore, the waves are weak with very little current at all. The water is not deep and the sand doesn’t stretch out under the water too far, so swimming for an adult is not great without water socks. But for a little one like Gabriel, it’s fantastic. There’s even a small area of tidepools nearby, so he’s seen little fishes, crabs, and even a sea urchin.

At Waimea last night at dusk, we walked along the beach and watched the large, crashing waves. It was quite dramatic to see the large waves carry big, fluffy white foam across that beach’s black sand. Gabriel enjoyed walking through the foam with his little bare feet, leaving little foot prints all over the place.

This morning, we went to Baby Beach again and he really enjoyed himself. He held mommy’s hands and marched right down to the water to walk around in it, even with the waves. He soaked a while, then walked back out and around to the tidepools to walk on the rocks and enjoy the water. This morning he talked and giggled a lot, so he clearly has gotten the hang of the ocean.

WAIMEA CANYON AND HIKING

Wednesday, in a mostly successful attempt to avoid the rain, we headed to Waimea Canyon and Koke’e State Park to go for a hike.

Waimea Canyon


We didn’t get there until a little later, but the winding drive was worth it. At the Kalalau Viewpoint – the end of the road - we got an unbelievably clear view of the Kalalau Valley of the Na Pali Coast. The last time we were here, the valley was socked in by clouds and one couldn’t see a thing.

Kalalau Valley


On the way back, we stopped at Koke’e State Park to hike the Berry Flat Trail. It was roughly two miles and was not, unfortunately, very impressive. The vegetation was the most remarkable thing for us: groves of spindly guava trees, much passionflower overgrowth, banks of tall kahili and aromatic white ginger, and a nice assortment of coniferous trees. There were actually groves of California Redwoods that were planted in the 30s, for whatever reason – erosion prevention maybe.

We enjoyed the hike, but our theory is that for the typical Hawaiian, the vegetation is novel – conifers, blackberries and strawberries, etc. It was very much a temperate forest, in some ways like we have at home. But given other hikes that have better views of the canyon, we know we can do better next time.

POIPU: THE VERDICT

We’re having a good time visiting the south and west sides of the island. The west side has been good in particular due to its drier climate in the island’s rain shadow. Yesterday, avoiding the rain less successfully, we got to go to the farmers’ market in Hanapepe to buy tropical fruits and vegetables. And, Gabriel got to try shave ice (cold sugar water – yum!).

But in general, we find Poipu itself to be a less enjoyable location than we would have expected. Unless you’re able to afford $250+ per night at the nearby resorts, traveling independently here is difficult. Everything is spread out forcing you to drive a ways for everything including shopping, restaurants, going to the beach, or anything else, really. Nothing is really a short walk. That’s very different from other places we’ve been lucky enough to visit, like Playa del Carmen in Quintana Roo, Mexico or other places in Hawaii – like Waimea. This developed first as a resort area and it lacks the charm that a town would have. Koloa Town is more like what I’m talking about; and at least five minutes’ drive from here.

KOLOA LANDING COTTAGES: THE VERDICT

What a difference it makes to have a child. I think that now with Gabriel, we are far more concerned about certain issues of cleanliness and safety than we were before. Having said that, we haven’t been too impressed with our accommodations. Although we realize this is a rental home after all, the place is still too grimy (what exactly do they do with the cleaning fee at departure, anyway? Off Track Betting?) The gardens outside are lovely and they even have a variegated ginger plant that Jill covets. But unfortunately, we’re not renting the grounds, we’re renting the house.

We found out that the owner has been out of town and will be back today, Friday. I guess we’ll see if management will be a bit more responsive with her return. It took them three days – at $150 per night, mind you – to get a two-burner hot plate put into our kitchen so that we can prepare our own meals. The second night, they provided us with two camp-style stoves that expressly warn against using indoors. Most of the pots and pans they provide are Teflon with much of the coating scratched off or dangling, so it’s not safe to use most of them.

I suppose that given what we’ve been able to buy in accommodations elsewhere for $150 per night, including a Victoria Harbor-view room at the Hong Kong Sheraton (check out the rooftop pool and view.. it's really cool), this rental has honestly been a bit underwhelming – so far. But the view out the window is pleasant and we all are definitely enjoying our vacation, despite the weather and the stove problem. And, we hear that some sort of refund/credit offer will be likely for the inconvenience of an inoperable kitchen. We shall see.

GASOLINE PRICES – YOU THINK YOU HAVE IT BAD?

Kaua’i is presently sporting an average gas price at roughly $3.80 per gallon of regular. That’s right, nearly $4.00 per gallon. I won’t even say what I spent last night to fill up the Trailblazer we rented. Oh, and let’s not forget the $5.00 loaves of whole wheat bread.

Alternatively, Hawaiian Host Caramacs at the Lihue Wal-Mart are half the price we pay at home. Huzzah!